Beyond Beer and Chocolate: My Life in Belgium: Greek Odyssey, August 2014

Palamidi Castle in Nafplio

Wednesday, August 6

Sophia and I arrived in Athens on schedule, and waited at the airport for my dear friend Kyriaki to arrive one hour later with her 8-month-old daughter. I am her baby's “auntie” and attended her baptism in Kyriaki’s hometown of Nafplio in the Peloponnese in March of this year. Now my daughter and I were invited to visit during the high summer season, and Kyriaki’s sister-in-law, Despina had graciously and generously offered us her apartment just two blocks from Kyriaki and her parents.

I spotted her father, Sotiris, waiting for her at the exit from baggage claim, and though I speak only three or four words of Greek, and he knows only a very few words of English, I greeted him and made it understood that we had arrived on a different flight from his daughter. We watched families reuniting noisily and joyously, and finally it was our turn. Kyriaki came through the doors pushing her daughter in her stroller, and after “Papou” greeted his little granddaughter with smiles and words of adoration, we were off to the car. On the two-hour drive to Nafplio, a tremendous thunderstorm erupted, and at one point we could barely see one meter in front of us. Fortunately, the rain subsided, and we arrived in Nafplio to see Kyriaki’s mother waiting anxiously on the sidewalk. She had called several times during the journey to check our progress. Of course she was happy to see her daughter, but the baby was the star attraction. Sophia and I just did our best to stay out of the way so that these adoring grandparents could get their fill of cooing and cuddling with her.

Kyriaki’s mother Aggeliki had prepared a delicious welcome meal of beef and pasta especially for us, since the rest of the family was fasting (no meat or animal products) until Friday, August 15, Mother Mary Day, and the name day for all women named Maria in Orthodox and Roman Catholic tradition. They ate some equally delicious fish, the leftovers of which Kyriaki’s mother packed up and insisted we take with us to eat the next day. This was our first wonderful taste of Greek hospitality…

Thursday, August 7

Our first full day in Nafplio was cloudy and though not in the least bit cold, it was not the sunny blue we had imagined. Never mind! We made a trip to the grocery store to add to the welcoming stock of food Despina had already provided for us. I took Sophia on a tour around the old city center, which I now know quite well after my trip in March. My sister Shelley and I had stayed in Nafplio for two days many years ago in 1985 when I was working as an” assistante anglaise” for the French Ministry of Education. At the time, I had three weeks of vacation at Easter, and Shelley arranged to fly to Athens from the U.S. and meet me and my friend Mel Scullen to travel to Crete and several smaller islands. After two weeks, Mel had to leave, so Shelley and I took a bus from Athens to Nafplio to spend our final week exploring the Peloponnese.

Sophia and I decided to try the little “beach” in Nafplio at the base of Palamidi Castle. There is actually no true beach in the town, but there is a pleasant stairs descending through a pine grove decorated with lights and ribbons. I ordered a coffee and we had the use of two lounge chairs by the sea. I had planned to swim, but a short and light rain shower deterred me. Instead, we packed up and walked back along the harbor where we gathered information about a cruise to two nearby islands that we planned to visit: Hydra and Spetses. On the way, we were lured by an Italian gelato shop where I tasted a mango gelato that was so delicious it seemed as though I were eating a fresh mango!

Later that evening, I made the fifteen minute walk from “our” apartment to the central square, known as Plateia Syntagmatos (Constitution Square) to meet Kyriaki and Despina for a drink and a chat. On a summer evening, the square is brimming with activity. Numerous restaurants have tables which spread and spill out under canopies and umbrellas, while at one end, a sculptural tree spreads its smooth-barked branches above the heads of café dwellers, enjoying a cold Mythos beer, or a delicious iced coffee. In the middle of the square, balloon sellers and bubble makers attract a constant stream of children, who run wild in packs, playing games and riding bikes, dodging the passersby, locals and tourists alike. Nafplio is very popular with Athenians who come for a weekend or to spend a few days in the tranquil and beautiful atmosphere created by the colorful Venetian style architecture dating from the time of the Venetian occupation during the 14^th through 17^th centuries. The Venetians were responsible for fortifying Nafplio with Palamidi Castle which dominates the city from its perch atop a stone cliff overlooking the Argolic Gulf. Unfortunately, after building such a formidable stronghold, Venice stationed only 80 soldiers in Nafplio in the late 17^th century, and it was quickly conquered by the Ottomans in 1715. It remained under Turkish control until 1822 when it was liberated in the Greek War of independence.The castle is illuminated every evening for several hours and provides an enchanting, almost fairytale backdrop for this charming little city of 33,000 inhabitants.

Balloon sellers in Constitution Square, Nafplio

Friday, August 8

During the car trip from Athens on our first afternoon, Kyriaki and her father had spoken to us about the opportunity to attend a performance in the ancient theater at Epidavros. On Friday morning, I awoke and began searching online for information. I soon discovered the website for the summer theatre festival, and had booked tickets for Sophia and me for Saturday evening to see Euripides’ “The Bacchae.”

http://www.greekfestival.gr/en/program?df=01%2f08%2f2014+00%3a00%3a00&et=all&t=2&v=-1

We were invited again to join Kyriaki's family for lunch, and “Mama V” had prepared a delicious vegetarian dish of stuffed eggplants, tomatoes and peppers expertly cooked in local olive oil and seasoned with oregano. This lovely meal combined with the heat of summer prepared us for a relaxing siesta in the afternoon. Every time we entered the family household, we were greeted warmly by everyone, and made to feel right at home. We told them about our discoveries, while we all delighted in 'our' baby girl's latest achievements. They had set up on their balcony a little puddle pool shaded by an adorable inflatable red mushroom where she could cool off and enjoy a tiny splash. She is a truly happy baby who smiles and laughs so readily that she kept us all in a good mood regardless of the heat. Later that afternoon, we rode with Kyriaki by car to the nearby beach known as Karathona. I couldn’t wait another moment to plunge into the sea, and it was so warm and delightful that I could have stayed in for hours. The sky clouded over, and 'copela mou' (my girl, in reference to the baby, not Sophia!) was a bit afraid of the vast expanse of water, so we didn’t stay very long, but just enough to relax under the umbrella after our swim, and take a few photos. A bus from Nafplio departs for the beach several times a day to make the 5 kilometer trip, so Sophia and I made plans to come back soon on our own.

Karathona Beach, 18:00

Saturday, August 9

One of our daily temptations was looking in the many shops, both in new and old Nafplio, each with its own attraction. Very near our apartment in the new part of town was a large “Chinese shop” filled with clothes….racks of colorful summer dresses, blouses, etc. The prices were bargain rate, so we succumbed and ventured in one afternoon after another delicious lunch that left us too tired to do much of anything but digest. We tried on a number of promising items, but I ended up with underwear and an apron for Sophia, after several disappointing, sweaty attempts in the changing room. Ironically, all week long, we would spot women around town sporting one of the dresses we had seen at the popular “Chinese shop.” We also tried on a number of shoes in several local shoe stores that all had drastic markdowns for the end of summer.

The old town has more sophisticated and therefore more expensive shops, but we managed to keep our purchases there to a minimum, though we each returned home with a new ring – mine a circle of life spiral in silver which makes a perfect contour around my finger, and Sophia a classic Greek design in gold.

At 7:30 pm we boarded a special chartered bus which took us directly to the ancient theater of Epidavros. We arrived one hour before the performance, so there was time to have a dessert and coffee in an outdoor restaurant, take some photos, and then find seats in the stone amphitheater which dates back to the 4^th century B.C. I had purchased the cheapest tickets in the uppermost tier – 10 euros for Sophia as a student, and 15 euros for me. We were able to sit directly in front of the stage, and with its famed perfect acoustics, we could hear every word. It is said that the acoustics are so good, that you can drop a pin on stage, and it can be heard in the top row. The theater seats 14,000 to 15,000 people, and has a total of 55 rows of seats in a bowl-shaped hollow in the side of a steep hill. In the ancient Greek tradition, the view of the sky and surrounding mountain and forest form the natural backdrop for the stage. The whole scene before us was breathtaking. Before the performance began at 9:00 pm, I captured the setting sun in a photo, and photographed the ubiquitous olive trees surrounding the site. The play was performed in modern Greek, and supertitled in English on large screens to the left and right of the stage.

sunset at Epidavros

The ancient theater at Epidavros before the peformance of Euripides' "The Bacchae"


Sophia and I at Epidavros before the performance

climbing the ancient stone steps to our seats in the upper tier

I later learned that ancient Epidavros had been a healing center. People traveled from all over the region to the asclepeion where they hoped to find a cure for their particular illness. They slept in a huge dormitory, where they were supposed to receive a communication in their dreams from the god of health himself, Asclepius, telling them what they needed to do to be cured. The ancient Greeks believed that attending artistic performances of various types could help to relieve numerous ailments, so the theater was designed by Polykleitos the Younger near the site of the healing center. In this particular belief, I think the Greeks were very advanced. Doctors today ought to prescribe their patients to attend theater as part of their treatment.

Sophia and I both felt a “chill” as we sat on those huge stone slabs alongside hundreds of other spectators, listening and watching as actors performed a play written by Euripides for audiences in 405 B.C. People had been sitting on those very same stone seats for thousands of years, watching theater just as we were that night under the stars, looking out at this very scene, and contemplating life. It was a memorable evening and an unforgettable experience. The bus was waiting for us after the performance ended to drive us back to Nafplio.

The famous Lion Gate entrance to the citadel at Mycenae

Sunday, August 10/Monday, August 11

After our evening at the performance of the Greek tragedy, “The Bacchae,” we decided to spend the next afternoon at the Karathona Beach. This was very pleasant but uneventful. I swam to my heart’s content in that deliciously warm water, and sunbathed a bit with plenty of sunscreen lathered on. Neither of us managed to get much reading done, despite bringing along our books.

Monday morning, we set out relatively early to catch the bus to Mycenae. Mycenae was a great citadel and stronghold of southern Greece two thousand years before Christ, and the area was inhabited since at least 4,000 B.C. Mycenae was founded, according to legend, by Perseus. The name derives from the Greek word for mushroom, mycés, which Perseus may have chosen because the same word describes the cap on the sheath of his sword. The Mycenaeans reached the peak of their civilization in 1350 B.C. at which time there were nearly 30,000 inhabitants. It is famous for its “cyclopean walls” built from gigantic stone boulders, weighing on average 20 tons, and some as much as 100 tons. As is so often the case in ancient Greek history, myth intertwines with fact to describe the glories and mysteries of the ancient past. These enormous boulders were purportedly placed there by the one-eyed Cyclops giants, as their manipulation by mortal men would have required 110 years by modern calculations. We do know, of course, that the ancients were not as preoccupied about getting things done in a hurry, and if it took 100 years to get the job done properly….well, so be it! (Most likely, the contractor told the king it would be finished in time for his retirement, and it actually took a few extra decades…..)

the 'cyclopean' walls


Grave circle at Mycenae

view over the valley from Mycenae citadel ruins

view from Mycenae site

While Mycenae is only 14 km from Nafplio, our bus took almost one hour, making its way through small villages as well as the town of Argos, also protected by an imposing castle perched high above the town. I photographed it from the bus as we passed beneath it. Though my friend reminded me that almost every Greek town has its castle, I am no less enthused when I spot one on the horizon. Their massive walls and formidable towers still impress modern mortals like me.

Castle above Argos, as seen from the bus

Despite the heat of Greece in August, we found wandering among the ruins of Mycenae quite pleasant, as there was a light mountain breeze and here and there a shaded nook to sit in and take in the surrounding landscape. The site is high, and provides a view in every direction over the surrounding valley and plain filled with olive groves, and a view towards the Bay of Argolid. The major points of interest were well marked and described in both Greek and English. We entered through the remarkable Lions Gate, where the missing heads are a reminder that long ago foreign invaders wished to leave a lasting symbol of their domination over the once powerful Mycenaeans. The grave circles were long ago excavated for their treasures, which are kept in The National Archeological Museum of Athens. (http://www.namuseum.gr/wellcome-en.html) There, you can view the famed gold mask of Agamemnon uncovered by the German archeologist Heinrich Schliemann in 1876, along with many other treasures from Mycenae. Even without going to Athens, we were able to view wonderful pottery in the small but lovely museum located adjacent to the site. These ancient vessels were amazing for their graceful forms and fascinating archaic decorations. There was also a partly reconstructed mural that depicted two female figures, one Mycenaean, the other Minoan. The style of dress of each woman was very distinctive and clearly showed the two cultures. I read somewhere that the Mycenaean women wore their hair in a style possibly influenced by the Egyptians.

detail of grave circle


the north gate

characteristic corbeled arch

additonal view of north gate


overview of the Mycenae Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Sophia and I also managed to descend part way down into the underground cistern with the aid of our feeble cellphone flashlights. The passageway descends beneath the distinctive corbelled walls seen both at Mycenae and Tiryns located just 4 km from Nafplio. Water was channeled through clay conduits from a natural spring outside the citadel to provide a continuous fresh water supply. It got a bit too dark and claustrophobic for our taste, so we made our way back out into the brilliant Greek sunlight and climbed the last portion to the top of the site for a panoramic view.

We returned to Nafplio on the bus via Argos, which made the return journey more quickly. We were due at the Vourla’s apartment for lunch promptly at 14:15, and had the pleasure of tasting okra cooked Greek style with garlic, tomato sauce, oregano, and other secret but tasty ingredients. Mama Vourla’s okra was a far cry from the slimy dish I had once tasted in Virginia at the Mary Baldwin College cafeteria! Okra is a popular vegetable staple in southern U.S. cooking, but I found the smaller Greek variety far tastier. Our Bulgarian friend and master chef, Izzy, tells me that the okra should be soaked in a vinegar solution prior to cooking to avoid the slimy texture.

Sophia descending into the cistern


Mycenean clay figures in the adjacent museum


the Greek flag (Hellada)

Tuesday, August 12

On Monday evening, we secured our tickets for the cruise to Hydra and Spetses. We had to catch a bus at 8:00 am from Nafplio to the nearby resort of Tolo (stress on the second “o”) in order to embark on the ship before its 9:00 am departure. We were among the last passengers to board, and found seats on the open top deck where the morning sun was not yet too hot to bear. As we cruised along, we followed the Peloponnesian coast, rocky and dotted with coastal villages and vacation homes. Here and there tiny rock islands emerged from the sea. The sky was slightly hazy, and the calm waters sparkled and glinted as the boat cut a swathe of foam to make our path.

early morning sun on the Ionian Sea

villas along the coast


rock cliff coast en route to Hydra

In general, tourism in this high season is remarkably low by former standards. It is clear that Greece has suffered a severe decline in tourism which is a mainstay of the economy. Most of Nafplio certainly depends on both local Athenian and some foreign tourism for its survival. These are tough times for many here. Kyriaki described how in the past, the summer theater festival at Epidavros lasted from June through August, with busloads of tourists attending every performance. Now the number of performances has been drastically reduced, and the theater which can accommodate up to 15,000 was perhaps one-third full. As another example of declining tourism, I had read online to be sure to get to Mycenae early, as the line to buy entrance tickets could be unbearably long due to the arrival of numerous tour buses. We arrived at 11:00 am and bought our tickets immediately. Lines were simply non-existent.

Approaching the island of Hydra

Hydra Harbor

entering Hydra harbor

The cruise company had offered only two days per week, and the option to board in Nafplio was no longer on offer. It was clear from our crowded ship that they limited options in order to have a full boat and maximize profits while avoiding wasting precious and expensive fuel. We soon knew that our decision to visit these two nearby islands, equidistant between Athens and Nafplio, was well worth the effort. Hydra proved to be a delightful introduction for Sophia to Greek island life….living up to the idyllic expectations one envisions when imagining Greece. We quickly escaped from the port area thronging with tourists and pricey shops, and headed uphill. All of the side streets are in fact a series of whitewashed steps, as the island’s main village is built into a hill. There are no cars permitted on Hydra except service vehicles, so donkeys, mules and horses provide the only public transport.

Sophia and I chose to walk and explore the island at our leisure, within the three hours allotted by our crew. I was soon finding a photo at every turn, from lace-covered doorways and donkeys to black-robed priests disappearing down white stairways. The sun grew hotter, the streets were empty. We stopped in a tiny grocery to refill our water bottle, and then continued on until we reached the sea on the other side of the island. On our way, I photographed cozy houses and gardens filled with cacti heavy with fruit and gorgeous bougainvillea in full bloom. As I snapped away, an older Frenchman passed me and smiled, saying that he had been living on the island of Hydra for 11 years, and still took photos of its beauty every day. “Everywhere you look there is a picture, “ he commented. I heartily agree.

these usually adorn the corners of roofs in Greece


the 'streets' of Hydra

public transport on the island of Hydra

houses on Hydra

crocheted lace-covered doorway!

whitewashing the walls

Orthodox priest on Hydra

one of several feline residents we met

When we reached the other edge of the island, we were glad to have tucked our bathing suits into the backpack. There we found a convenient stone stairway down to the rocks below from which we could step into the deep water and take a refreshing swim in the turquoise water of the Ionian Sea. We also spotted a house for rent on that very spot with its doors and windows opening onto the blue sea and sky….we took down the phone number…..and started dreaming of future trips! We were pleased to find this spot where we swam almost alone. A couple was sunning on the rocks nearby, and another man took a quick dip, but otherwise we had the sea to ourselves. After we dressed and continued our walk on a path that circled the island, we discovered where our fellow passengers and other island tourists were swimming and sunning further along and closer to the port. The views were none the less stunning, and we ended our sojourn at a restaurant overlooking the sea. We had only forty minutes remaining before we needed to board, so we quickly ordered a Greek salad and tzaziki….a cucumber and yogurt salad served with thick slices of toasted bread spread with olive oil and garlic. In the heat of summer, it was a perfect lunch.

our dream vacation house by the sea....it's for rent!


We swam here just below

We jumped off the rocks below and swam here


Laskarina Bouboulina, heroine of the Greek War of Independence, 1822

The next and final stop before returning to Tolo was the island of Spetses. It is flatter topographically than Hydra, and less charming, but it has an interesting history. Both Hydra and Spetses are proud to be the home of Bouboulina, a woman whose family originated from Hydra, though she was born in a prison in Constantinople (today known as Istanbul)! From what I learned she was a pretty tough cookie! Bouboulina’s father had been a captain, but was imprisoned by the Turks along with his wife and child for his participation in an uprising against the Turks who occupied Greece at that time, incorporating it into the Ottoman Empire. Her father died in prison, and her mother returned with her to Hydra, then moving to nearby Spetses where she remarried. Bouboulina grew up and married a wealthy ship’s captain named Dimitrios Bouboulis from whom she took her name. When he died fighting against Algerian pirates, Bouboulina inherited his ships and fortune, and used some of the money to build four new ships. She also purchased arms and ammunition, and helped create a naval blockade in Nafplio in 1821 as part of the Greek struggle for independence from the Ottomans. In a civil war in 1824 between opposing Greek factions, Bouboulina was arrested due to her association with a certain Greek officer out of favor, and exiled in Spetses, all of her fortune spent on the war of independence. She died in 1825 when her son eloped with the daughter of another island family. The story goes that the angry father came in search of his daughter, accompanied by armed members of his family. Bouboulina came out onto her balcony to confront the angry group, and after a brief argument, someone in the crowd shot her in the forehead, instantly killing her. A museum and statue in her honor are found on the island of Spetses. Quite a woman! I think she more than earned her statue and place as a heroine of modern Greek history.

fresh squeezed orange juice we sucked down in zero time!

'selfie' while waiting for the bus back to Nafplio

At a café in Tolo, waiting for the bus. The man behind us was our kind waiter.

We returned to Tolo and had one hour to spend before the bus arrived to take us back to Nafplio. The hotels and restaurants of this fishing village turned resort are practically washed by the waves so close are they to the sea. We wandered along the main street, found the bus stop, and sat waiting on a comfortable sofa practically on the sidewalk of a nearby café where we ordered fresh orange juice. Our waiter was friendly and helpful, walking with me up the street to point out the bus stop in answer to my query, and checking the schedule with me. This may sound like a rather simple matter in such a small town, but keep in mind that most all signs are written in Greek!

images from the Wednesday morning market in Nafplio

Viva la vida by Mexican artist Frida Kahlo

Wednesday, August 13/Thursday, August 14

Our last days in Nafplio were spent quite leisurely. We did some more wandering about the old town, and on Wednesday morning, I made sure that Sophia visited the market along the edge of the park. I had passed quickly through it on Saturday morning with Kyriaki and the baby in her stroller, but we arrived quite late and the crowded market was no place for a maxi cosi (Kyriaki’s large and comfortable baby stroller). The Nafplio market is a delight for the senses and easy on the wallet. Vendors called out loudly, offering deals such as a kilo of grapes for one euro, sweet melons for 50 cents, or a braid of garlic for 3 euros. I photographed an amazing pile of colorful assorted peppers, and saw a display of cut watermelon that looked like the still life that inspired Frida Kahlo’s “Viva la vida” painting.

cicada in Nafplio...uncharacteristically on the ground

red eyes and ocelli

Another memorable aspect of our week in Nafplio was the ever-present sound of the cicadas. Their deep rasping hum by the thousands was so loud in some areas of town that it was almost overwhelming. (Watch my video clip above.) The mating call of the male cicadas reminded me of the cicadas in the huge silver maple of our garden in Virginia every year in the month of August….the same insect going through the same cycle of life in a totally different part of the world. A little-known and fascinating fact regarding cicadas is that they actually have five eyes! They have two large red eyes on either side of their heads, and between these two larger eyes are three much smaller red eyes known as ocelli. Cicadas go through several metamorphoses before reaching their adult stage, and all of the earlier stages take place underground over a period of 2-5 years on average, but can be as long as 13 to 17 years for some species! (I just thought you might like to know all this….I find insects quite fascinating….)

We had a last delicious lunch with Kyriaki's family, and on Wednesday evening, Sophia and I ventured out late in the evening when the air had cooled to stroll along the harbor front while savoring one last mango gelato. A Greek musician was performing at a concert venue on the waterfront, and many people were walking along the Arvanitia, a promenade along the base of the hill beneath the Palamidi Castle. We followed it as it wound past seaside restaurants and scented pine groves, but finally turned back when we reached an unlit portion, unsure where it would lead us. I later read that you can follow this path all the way around the base of the hill and continue on to reach Karathona Beach on foot in 40 minutes. I will keep that information in mind for my next trip to Nafplio.


Sleeping Beauty...or The Little Mermaid :-)


Windsurfer at Karathona Beach


Ya sias (Farewell!) to the sun, sea, mountains, people, and thousands of years of history that make Greece so extraordinary!

On our last day, after packing up in preparation for our early morning departure on Friday, we headed one last time to the beach to swim and sunbathe in that idyllic spot. There was a sea breeze which kept us comfortable, and when we grew too hot, we could dive into the perfect sea, with a sandy bottom and delicious temperature. I swam three times that afternoon, trying to store up the experience to keep me satisfied until my next opportunity!

That evening, we met Aggeliki, Despina, Kyriaki and baby to have dinner together in one of the outdoor harbor restaurants. As we strolled through town, Kyriaki's mother delighted in her role as "Yaya" (Grandma), pushing the stroller proudly and greeting her admiring friends and neighbors. Sitting under a clear, starlit sky with the illuminated castle high on the hill above us, we ordered an array of Greek specialties, including grilled octopus (Chtapodi sti schara), mushrooms in vinegar, fried feta cheese (saganaki), eggplant salad (melitzanosalata), and zucchine balls (tiganita). Finally, it was time to say thank you and farewell to all before we departed.

The next morning, Sophia and I boarded a bus bound for Athens central bus station, and from there we took a bus to the airport. We were on our way back to Brussels, and though it had been indeed almost unbearably hot at times, we were going to miss the sun, cicadas, and warm Greek hospitality.

Ya sias! Γειά σας

More photos.....