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| Wow! What an array! How to choose?! |
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| Bodrum....the city that never sleeps? |
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| My chicken kebab attracted a few visitors to my table. |
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| Bodrum Peninsula |
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| I was impressed and pleased to see this cool, flowing water dish for animals in Golturkbuku. |
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| The Turks love to play backgammon. |
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| Golturkbuku |
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| Farewell Turkey! |
I am now on board the flight which will take me to Istanbul and then onwards to Brussels.
Over the past three days, I have savored the sights, scents and flavors
of the Bodrum Peninsula, trying to soak up enough
energy from the sun and sea to last during many long dark winter days
ahead.
I include here a pastiche of observations, reflections and
photos from these relaxing days with little more than late breakfasts,
shopping, reading, swimming, and evening strolls to give them structure.
On Friday, I headed in the opposite direction from my hotel,
away from the bustle of seaside cafés, and discovered the docks where
cruiseships call to port. Just beyond
was a quieter, calmer strand of houses,
beachfront hotels and restaurants with shaded lounge beds. I chose the first one I came to, literally,
and reclined in peace. The owners were
preoccupied with a game of backgammon and paid no attention, so I didn’t even
feel obliged to order a drink. I was
soon joined on my sunbed by a handsome male – a black and grey tiger-striped
cat who happily sprawled next to my legs and luxuriated under my caresses. He purred sweetly, then pounced playfully at
the dangling strap from my camera as I took his picture. Later, I ordered a salad and sat under a
nearby tree, listening to gently slapping waves on the stony shore….a late
afternoon swim, and then back to my hotel.
Saturday was too lazy to even mention (lazier still than
Friday!), but suffice it to say that I didn't let a day pass without a swim in
the delightfully blue, clear Aegean. Even late in the afternoon, the water is warm
and I could still dry in the sun before leaving the beach.
For my last day, I headed for the central bus station by
noon to catch the convenient dolmus (mini-bus, or collective taxi) to
Golturkbuku. It was a 30-minute ride
through lush pine forests on steep hills to cross the peninsula to its northern
coastal shore. Golturkbuku is known as a
port of call for private yachts and boats of wealthy Turks, and I had been
forewarned that prices there might be significantly higher than in Bodrum. I
found the little town half-deserted, and after traversing the waterfront under
a hot sun, I turned back to choose an empty dock with plenty of shaded sunbeds
available in front of a small taverna.
The prices posted were no more expensive than elsewhere. Another leisurely afternoon of reading and
swimming, allowing myself just enough time to take advantage of my free Turkish
bath, an offer added to my purchase of the excursion to Ephesus.
Back in Bodrum, I
asked the tour operator to arrange for a driver to transfer me to Gumbet, the
next town along the coast, where the bath house was located. It was nearly closing time, and I was the
only visitor. I had been told by other
tourists that women were bathed by women and men by men, but I was greeted by
three men!
The first one explained the procedure, and of course, though
my bath was indeed free, the idea was that in addition, I would purchase a
massage (an array of different types were on offer), a facial, manicure,
pedicure, etc. Since it was my last
evening, and I had Turkish lira to spend, I decided on a back massage with
oil.
The bath began with the hamam or sauna, then I was doused
with water in a lovely big room with marble floors, a huge marble slab table in
the center, and a convex ceiling dripping slightly with warm drops and
steam. The attendant told me to lie down
on the marble table which was very warm to the touch. He proceeded to scrub my entire body head to
toe with a rough but not unpleasant scrub mitt to slough off dirt and dead
skin. He then asked me to stand again by
one of a dozen flowing basins around the perimeter of the room where he doused
me again to rinse off. Once again on the marble slab, the washing began with
billows of beautiful foam. I am not
quite sure how it was applied, but it glided over me as smoothly as a
hydroplane over water. I felt so
incredibly clean!
Wrapped in a towel, I was next guided to the masseur, with a
brief cooldown in a waiting lounge with a bottle of cold water to drink. Throughout the whole bath experience, I had
the feeling of being guided like a child to do as I was bidden…rinsed, soaped,
wrapped and led by the hand…..quite fun!
The massage that followed was the
perfect way to end my vacation. The
masseur asked whether I wanted it hard or light….I opted for hard, and he
covered my entire back, shoulders, neck and scalp, as well as arms, hands and
fingers, deftly, expertly, smoothly! I
had taken a brief massage course in Brussels with
an American from California,
but this was even more deeply satisfying.
He clasped his hands with each of mine in turn, then laid each arm one
after the other across the small of my back while he applied a maneuver that I
would have liked to simultaneously observe so that I might try it out on
others! The 10-minute back massage I had
requested for 30 TL (15 euros) seemed to last longer….the advantage of being
the only customer in the place.
Afterwards, my driver whisked me back to my hotel (transport was
included) and I felt refreshed and as good as new…..
Bags packed (and bulging), bill
paid, alarm set, I took one last tour of town, lovely after dark with the moon sailing in the dark, expansive
celestial sea, and the many restaurants glowing with candles and lanterns. Bodrum
Castle, illuminated at
night, dominated the panorama of the harbor, with yachts and cruiseships
outlined in twinkling lights. In the
evenings, suntanned tourists and dark-haired locals paraded past innumerable
shops beckoning with all sorts of exotic goods.
I forgot to mention the curious
procession I witnessed Sunday morning in Bodrum on my way to the bus
station. This same procession was
mirrored by a similar event in Golturkbuku.
A group of men playing traditional Turkish instruments were gathered
around a camel, richly decked out in a heavy oriental carpet and tasseled
harness. The long horns produced high
whining strains typical of Middle Eastern music, entertaining a crowd of Bodrum
inhabitants. The camel himself sat majestically
on the sidewalk while the crowd milled around, talking, women bore baskets filled with flowers, while the men
sat at tables or jostled amongst the mix of locals and a few curious observers
like me with cameras poised. I never
did learn exactly what it all meant! Someone suggested to me that it might be
part of a wedding procession, but if so, the people attending were dressed very
simply, and there was no bride nor groom in sight.
I had seen a bride and groom along
with a wedding party near the beach the day before, and they were definitely
exuberantly dressed – some of the women in the wedding ceremony were wearing
dresses with full hoop skirts in brilliant cascades of red.
I like the Turkish preference for
elaborate design and bright mixes of color, rich fabrics and textures – I have
always had a taste for the exotic and bohemian….a riot of colors similar to the
aesthetic sensibility favored by the Mexican and Peruvian folkloric artists
that I adore.
In one drugstore, I saw the
largest array of nail polish choices I have ever laid eyes on anywhere!
I will miss the sea greeting me
each morning, sparkling in the sun, and oddly, I will miss the call to prayer
that I could hear emanating from the mosque tower morning and evening – I found
it provided a comforting regularity and rhythm to the hours each day.
